by Reshma Allu
For Menka Soni, being “DEI” is more than a trendy buzzword – it is the life she has been living and pushing for, for decades. In an exclusive interview with Unite style editor Reshma Allu, the entrepreneur, pageant director, philanthropist talks about her journey and voices a call for fashion justice.
Long before the urgency of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) pierced its way into our everyday lexicon and collective consciousness, Menka Soni was practicing and preaching it.
Over the years, the CEO of North America Fashion Week (NAFW) and pageant director has used her platform to include people with different bodies and of various ages and diverse backgrounds. Her work as the founder and director of AmPowering draws attention to underprivileged artisan communities. And in 2020, she was made Diversity and Inclusion Ambassador by the mayor of Renton.
Soni’s role as CEO of NAFW gave her a greater impetus to use her platform for change. The shows were brimming with stirring messages related to DEI, urging participants and attendees to rethink fashion. She also carefully scrutinized every designer, model, hair & makeup artist, photographer, and supplier before giving the DEI nod of approval. “The fashion industry is and should be open [to] everyone,” she told me.
Read on as Soni – recognized as the Most Admired Global Indian – talks about her journey, addresses the subject of DEI in fashion, discusses the future of PNW fashion, and a issues a message to those in the LGBTQ+ community looking for a career in the field.
Reshma Allu: You’ve made many significant contributions to the fashion industry. When did you first discover your passion?
Menka Soni: It came in two [stages]. As a kid, I dreamt of a career as a designer and producer. At a deep level, I’ve also always wanted to help people. During my school days in Lucknow, India, I was drawn to the unique and classy Lucknow Chikankari artwork. But I was bothered by how the artists were exploited, with little pay. After several years, when I decided to pursue my fashion career, Lucknow Chikankari was [foremost] on my mind. I believe it was a call from the universe. In 2010, I started my small home boutique, and soon launched my first store in Seattle. Through my venture, I involved small-scale women artists and started getting recognition in the Seattle fashion market.
After a few years, the city demolished the building I was leasing. I felt I was brought [back to square one]. But I am a fighter, and despite all odds, I pushed [past] every hurdle and carved my path while uplifting others.
RA: What are some of the choices – big and small – that you have made to create your ventures?
MS: My motto was clear: “Grow together to transform your dreams into reality”! I always made sure that as I am growing, I am empowering others by helping them realize the power within themselves. And this is exactly the name of our [nonprofit]: AmPowering, which says “I am power.” In my 10-year journey with AmPowering and 12 years in fashion, I feel humbled to empower people from all phases and situations in life. I have learned and grown from every experience – good or bad.
RA: What does diversity in fashion mean to you? And how do you approach it in your work?
MS: DEI to me is not a program, task, event, or project. It is a principle that I believe in and adopt. We often get confused and just involve diversity, but it’s important for us to have equity and inclusion too. In recent years, fashion has become more diverse; however, it is still far from inclusive – and they have very different meanings.
There was a time when only tall, slim, white models were featured. Fashion consumers are beyond [this], and therefore I always involve a mix. Many people stepped out of their comfort zone, built confidence, and eventually grew. It even reduced body shaming. Again, people of color struggle to break into the industry, and those who manage to get in don't often feel welcome. That is why I wanted to make it not only diverse, but also inclusive. Today many brands practice diversity through employment. However, inclusivity happens only if they have an influential voice. Companies should make it their [corporate social responsibility] to have diverse voices at the table. For example, you may recruit a model of color, but you also should have makeup artists who understand their tones.
I noticed this when I took our Asian models to other runways, and the makeup artists could not give their best. At NAFW 2021, we had over 60 [hair & makeup artists] working on different skin tones. Maritza Lopez from [the Hispanic community] and Ena Robinson from the African community lead all hair and makeup needs led in NAFW 2022 too.
RA: Let’s talk about ageism. Your fashion shows include models of all ages, which is uncommon even today.
MS: NAFW welcomes all ages in every field. From kids to senior models, we encourage participation at every age to cater to various consumers. While the runway is a dream and fantasy, it is also representative, and if that doesn’t include buyers of different ages, it’s a problem. Also, when is aging stylishly not something to aspire to? And why not show women inspiration that relates to [that]? Age is just a number, and anyone who wishes to [take] part should be given an opportunity.
RA: What needs to change about the fashion industry in the Pacific Northwest? And how optimistic are you?
MS: Seattle is the epicenter of technology in the US and is home to many IT and technology giants. Fashion has a huge untapped potential, ripe with anticipation and excitement. We have the chance to grow and make it big [like] Paris, Milan, and New York. But like the industry, it has to embrace diversity and be more inclusive.
Another big challenge that designers here face is shortage of buyers, as many are attracted to [larger] fashion hubs. I am very optimistic that as fashion and technology grow together, it will bridge this gap.
NAFW is an extravagant, carefully curated, collaborative platform defying all cultural and geographical barriers. It has a big name in the fashion industry for its uniqueness and value proposition. And as a nonprofit, we strongly believe in DEI and sustainability and support brands with strong social impact.
RA: What are some of the simplest things that each one of us can do to be more inclusive?
MS: First and foremost, we need to accept that we have some unconscious [biases] within us. It’s important to identify them and learn to limit their influence. We need to incorporate small strategies that can systematically change our ability to drive curiosity and empathy for people, ideas, and collaboration. Learn and explore about cross fashion, people, arts, and culture, and involve them. Make genuine efforts to break biases. Clear your hiring process of any restrictions that can discriminate.
Most importantly, provide the right resources to make it work. I have learned [this through] experience, [as] when a hotel forgot to provide a ramp at a show for a wheelchair model. I requested all models walk on the floor instead, to be inclusive. We really cannot make these mistakes, so I have become more careful and conscious.
RA: What are your plans for the future?
MS: One of my biggest plans is to bring fashion and technology together, to grow and be accessible. We are working on a few projects that will be revealed soon.
We are also providing resources to disadvantaged fashion communities to make them part of the bigger game. We need more sponsors supporting the cause. Fashion is generally not considered a strong cause to donate [to], but there are people in the process who need support. It’s time to empower!
Another area we are focusing is sustainability. We are [raising] awareness around environmental issues and featuring many sustainable designers in NAFW 2022. We will continue to spread awareness beyond this event.
RA: Any message you would like to share for those in the LGBTQ+ community looking for careers in fashion?
MS: I will say that fashion is to dress bodies and not gender! It should be something that defines your inner spirit without creating any [outward] differences. There is an urgent need for the fashion industry to address this gap.
Clothing design is undoubtedly a creative endeavor, but it needs to evolve, and that will come from the evolution of self-knowledge and identity. Fashion has to take the form of global domination, which is a revolution, passive yet powerful in nature, brimming with new ideas to break the gender binary and to [expand] out of the conventional. It cannot happen if LGBTQ+ creators do not come forward to bring the change. Let's all embrace it together.North American Fashion Week is happening now, go to https://northamericafashionweek.com for more info and Tix.
