Name: Warren Pinkston
Current Restaurant or Last: Executive Chef at Clarklewis Restaurant
Would you tell us about your first job working with food?
My first job working with food was by far not a glamorous one, and it came at a very early age. I worked in the restaurant of a close family friend. The owner was someone who had been there for my birth, had watched me grow up, and was even my father’s manager at a restaurant in his early twenties before enlisting in the Navy. It was there that I got my first real taste of the hard work required to succeed and thrive in the industry. I peeled potatoes and scrubbed pots. Over time, I progressed quickly, gaining the trust of the other kitchen workers, despite my age and negligible experience. Working for her gave me the confidence I would need for the rest of my career.
What is your favorite dish to make and why?
One of my fondest memories is waking up to the smell of biscuits in my grandparents’ house. My grandmother got up tirelessly every morning to cook breakfast for her family. This was one of the first things I learned to make; it was more of an experience than an actual recipe. To this day, whenever I make them, it reminds me of her. I love their versatility.
What has your experience been as an LGBTQ+ person working in the culinary industry?
Being LGBTQ+ in any industry can be challenging. In fact, being LGBTQ+ in the world in general can be difficult. I have always lived my life as more than just my sexuality. I am a person who happens to be LGBTQ+, and that comes first. Growing up in Alabama as a queer youth had its challenges, but earning respect is what we should strive for. I have always tried to foster inclusiveness in all the kitchens I’ve worked in. My experiences as a queer person have taught me that everyone deserves respect and a sense of belonging.
How do you use your talents to build community?
I have participated in many charity events and outreach initiatives over the years. Food has a unique way of bringing people together—everyone has to eat. Gathering at a table creates its own community. I apply this concept in the restaurants as well, creating “family meal” for the staff.
What other passions do you have outside of the kitchen?
Outside of the kitchen, I love to garden—something I inherited from my grandfather. My dog is another great passion of mine; she and I are inseparable (except when I have to work since I can’t get her to find a job! Haha!). We enjoy hiking when we can, taking long evening walks, or just hanging out in the yard. It might seem cliché, but I also love reading cookbooks.
What is the most memorable moment, good or bad, you’ve had working in the culinary industry?
My most memorable moment would be traveling to Ireland to work in a five-star restaurant and hotel/golf course (The Carton House). It was the experience of a lifetime. I met many friends and colleagues that I still keep in touch with today.
What would you still like to achieve or learn?
I have always believed that we continue to learn and grow until the day we die. I strive to learn something new every day. Secretly, though, I would love to be part of the Michelin or James Beard community.
Any words of inspiration for those who want to learn to cook at home or pursue a career in the culinary industry?
The only advice I have for them is this: Never stop learning. Culinary school is often not the best choice for everyone—find a chef you admire and learn everything you can from them. You will make far more dishes that aren’t good than those that are, and that’s okay! Take criticism with a grain of salt—especially online reviews. Art is subjective, and your creations won’t please everyone, and that’s fine! Try to find the grain of truth in feedback and use it to improve. Finally, some words from my grandpa: “Even if you are digging ditches, dig the best damn ditch you can dig.” Life is about morality, ethics, and character—if those are strong, you will go far.
Southern Buttermilk Biscuits
- 3 cups all-purpose flour
- 3 tbsp sugar
- 3 tsp baking powder
- 1 tsp salt
- 3/4 tsp baking soda
- 6 oz chilled & cubed lard (can use butter to make them vegetarian)
- 1 cup plus 2 tbsp buttermilk.
Instructions
- Place all of the dry ingredients in a large bowl.
- Add in the chilled and cubed lard. Rub the mixture between your fingers until it resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Work quickly so that the heat of your hands does not melt the lard.
- Add in all of the buttermilk and stir with a wooden spoon (I still use only a wooden spoon, because that is what grandma did) until a shaggy dough comes together.
- Flour the counter and dump out the bowl. Lightly flour the dough and press it flat with your hands. Fold it into thirds and repeat the process of flattening and folding 6 times (only six times – grandma was adamant about that.).
- Take your cutter of choice and cut the dough into rounds (or squares, or stars, whatever you like).
- Place the cut biscuits in a greased cast iron pan (you can use a sheet pan and they will still be delicious.).
- Make sure that they are just barely touching so that they rise tall instead of wide.
- Bake at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes. You will know they are done when they are golden brown, and the layers separate easily.
- Once out of the oven, brush the tops with some cream.
- Serve
